India has always been praised for its sewing and weaving methods, and a Saree is one of its most elegant creations. As an unstitched piece of cloth that measures somewhere between five to nine yards in length, a Saree is a traditional figure-hugging attire worn by Indian women. Since Sarees are typically hand-woven, it connects to the Indian soul more than anything and has a distinct style unique to every region.
Sarees are differentiated on several factors such as the fabric, print, embroideries, style of weaving, patterns, and even the occasion. There is also a traditional draping technique for every region, such as the Bengali style, Nivi style, Gujrati style, Assamese style, and the Marathi style, among others. It is such a graceful clothing item that, in certain parts of the country, it is also worn as decorative bridal wear. Not only women but even the sculptures of the Hindu Goddesses are also shown to be wearing a Saree, making it an embodiment of strength, respect, and purity.
Festivals and Sarees: The Cultural Connect
Even though for the working woman, it becomes difficult to manage a Saree as she carries on her work for the day, India, as a land of festivals, provides ample opportunities for her. Some traditions in these festivals also require women wearing Sarees and performing the rituals. The last time it was recorded, there were more than eighty styles of draping throughout the country. However, a visit to traditional families during festivals can give you a glimpse of women wearing a Saree drape authentic to their region. The others mostly follow a convenient and quick method of draping. Some of the authentic methods of wearing festival Sarees are:
Maharashtra: Also known as Nauvari, this drape is traditional to Maharashtra. Descendants of the Peshwa women, the traditional Maharashtra or Goa villagers (or fisherwomen) still drape their Sarees in this process. You will also see most women sporting this style during the famous Ganesh Chaturthi festival. In Maharashtra, you would find the Brahmins wearing the Saree knee-length, and the rural Pune women wearing the same Saree in an ankle-length fashion. The traditional Nauvari is divided into two pieces where one is tied around the waist, and the other covers the upper half of the body, almost like a dupatta. You can also find women performing their traditional dance form Lavani wearing the same Nauvari Saree.
Assam: Here, the traditional wear is mostly a Saree-dress known as the Mekhela Sador. It is always hand-woven and found in cotton, muga, or pat silk materials. Traditionally worn by women during annual festivals like Bihu, the dress is divided into two parts. The bottom part, or the Mekhela, is a wide cylinder of cloth typically folded to form two pleats before tucking in. The top part, or the Sador, is longer, where one end is to be tucked in the Mekhela, and the rest draped to the rest of the body. Women are supposed to complement the Mekhela Sador with a tight blouse to enhance the form of the dress-Saree. However, at weddings, women are often seen to wear a Riha instead of a blouse.
Tamil Nadu: Usually known as Madisaru, women traditionally wear this after their wedding or during festivals like Pongal. An exciting part of this Saree draping style is that it is known as one of the most complicated styles because one is not allowed to wear a blouse or petticoat with it. The lower half of the Saree is known to be worn as a loincloth and the upper half, on the other hand, is to be pleated as a regular Saree. Also native to Tamil Nadu is the Pinkosu form of draping. Ideal for the humidity of the region, this Saree is worn in a way where it is wrapped around the waist one and a half times. This offers more coverage, unlike other styles. Best suited for handloom Sarees, this technique shows a lot of the underside of the Saree and thus requires expertise to wear.
Bengal: One of the most prevalent methods of wearing a Saree is the Bengal style, also known as Athpoure. Traditionally worn by women during their weddings when they wear a benarasi, or Durga Puja when they find comfort in the red-bordered white Gorod saree; Athpoure draping runs in the nerves of Bengali woman. Here, the Saree is draped with box pleats in the front, and the pallu falls on both the shoulders. The veil (aanchol) first comes from the back on the left shoulder and then comes to the right shoulder. To keep up with the traditions and command a respectful position in their family, Bengali women are also seen to tie a bunch of keys to the end of the veil.
Types of Sarees Commonly Found in India
When we speak of festival Sarees, we often come across a few materials specific to a certain zone. Some of the most traditional ones commonly found in the country include:
Bengal: Known to be a connoisseur of materials such as taant, Bengal has much more to offer. Traditionally weaved by the women of West Bengal and Tripura, taant is known for its transparency and lightness. Perfect as summertime wear, these two shuttle sarees are famous for their thick borders and decorative pallu.
Tussur is also another saree material quite popular among Bengali women. Made up of brownish silk that is produced by an oriental moth, tussur sarees are mostly considered an inheritance in the Bengali household. Gorod, an alternative name for what is colloquially known as “white,” is a traditional festive wear for Bengali married women. During the Durga puja or noboborsho, they flaunt their “laal paar shada gorod” which roughly translates to a red-bordered white base gorod saree. It symbolizes power and purity at the same time. Some other forms of traditional sarees, unique to Bengal include Begumpuri and Bishnupuri Silk.
South India: This area covers a broad range of sarees specific to each zone. Belonging to the Kanchipuram area is the Kanchipuram Silk, which is also colloquially known as the Kanjeevaram. Falling under the category of bridal and special occasion wear, Kanchipuram is mostly found in Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, and Karnataka. Next up in the South Indian traditional saree family, is the dharmavaram.
Derived from the town of Dharmavaram, these sarees of the same name, are made from the mulberry trees which are a breeding ground for silkworms. Such mulberry silk sarees are pricey but offer a beautiful material to hold. They are woven by hand in an interlocked weft method in a combination of zari and mulberry silk to come up with these muted double shaded sarees.
Unlike these two elegant silk materials, the traditional saree of the Telangana district, Pochampally, is made up of the Ikkat style of dyeing. The uniqueness of these cotton and silk mix sarees typically lies in the colouring and intricate design.
Maharashtra: Whenever one speaks of the gorgeous handwoven silk materials, the richest sarees of Maharastra, Paithani comes in the picture. These are also known to be handwoven poems written in silk and gold. Also known to be a symbol of intellectuality among elites, back in time, it was treated as an heirloom and worn only by the rich families. The authentic Paithani sarees are till date woven with original gold or silver, on pure silk.
Assam: Popular for the three primary variants of indigenous wild silks produced originally in Assam, the Sarees hailing from this region are typically called “Assam Silk”. The silk categories found here are the golden muga, white pat, and the warm eri. These are also used to weave their famous traditional wear mekhela sador.
India, being one of the oldest civilizations in the World, is a land of cultural diversity and each region has a dress that carries its individuality and uniqueness. Even though modern styles of wearing a Saree are more prevalent these days, it becomes crucial to stay in touch with the roots by shifting to the authentic draping styles during the festivals.