Following the tagline of “blending art in your attire,”Bandhuli’s handpicked saree designs attempt to spotlight India’s rich culture of art and handicrafts. From Madhubani paintings to kalamkari, from wood-block printing to wax batik, each piece of Bandhuli’s saree collection showcases these handcrafted designs.
Bandhuli procures the raw material for sarees directly from the local weavers in the villages and districts produced. The authentic Tussar silk comes from Chhattisgarh, while the cotton sarees are obtained from weavers in Bengal. 

Tussar silk, also called Kosa Silk, is obtained from the larvae of silkworms ofthe moth genus Antheraea. These silkworms breed on the trees of Sal, Arjun, and Saja that are mostly found in the wild forests only. Hence, Tussarsilk is also known as the ‘wild silk’. When these silk moths are boiled, they produce natural golden-hued threads. Boiling the cocoons of the silkworms is the most crucial step of the silk manufacturing process. Some of the tribal groups boil the cocoons after the larvae have left them. The silk produced from such cocoons is referred to as ‘Ahimsa silk’.

Tussar silk production is a major occupation among the Tribals in Jharkhand, Chattisgarh, Bihar, and West Bengal. A majority of Tussar silk sarees are hand-woven by tribal women with each saree taking about three days to be complete. They are produced by completely natural and eco-friendly methods. Tussar silk threads are unique because of their natural golden hue with a shimmery texture. The sarees are mostly produced in lighter shades of cream, beige, or brown. They are naturally dyed in darker colours to give it a richer and more glamorous look. The Tussar silk saree shops in Kolkata source most of their sarees from Bhagalpur, Bihar as the region produces a large portion of original Tussarsarees. Tussar silk is sometimes also referred to as Bhagalpuri silk.

The Uniqueness of Tussar Sarees

The most fascinating aspect of Tussar silk sareesis that they are the first of its kind where the silkworms breed on wild forest trees, and not mulberry trees. This is what makes them more affordable than pure mulberry silk sarees.

The Bhagalpuri silk industry is more than a few centuries old. It is most famous for its production of hand-woven Tussar silk sarees, a tradition that has been passed down through generations of weaver families.

Tussar silk fabrics are porous in nature, which makes them super comfortable to be worn in hot climates. These sarees are lightweight and are easy and convenient to be draped around.

Tussar silk produces shorter fibres, which makes it less durable. Thus, they need to be properly maintained. The best way to take care of this rich fabric is to always dry clean them. Keep your Tussarsarees in a muslin bag to allow the fabric to breathe.

The natural golden hue of Tussar silk sarees makesthema perfect choice for special occasions like weddings, anniversaries, cocktail parties, and receptions. The shimmery texture makes the fabric refract different shades at different angles, making you stand out in a crowd.

Conclusion

If you are looking for sarees that are simple yet elegant, and lightweight yet glamorous, then Tussar silk sarees in Kolkata are just what you want! They can be found in various price ranges.

Made from pure cotton fabric, cotton sarees are light, comfortable, and breathable. Ranging from Tant saree in West Bengal to Sambhalpuri saree in Odisha, the best cotton saree shop in Kolkata can offer a wide variety of saree collections to its patrons. They can be worn for small gatherings, formal events, festive occasions, or even simple weddings. Cotton sarees strike a delicate balance between sophisticated fashion and pleasurable comfort.

What makes Cotton Fabric the best choice for a Saree?

Cotton fabric is highly regarded as the best fabric for designing sarees. The threads are strong and durable, making sure that cotton sarees last for a long time. Cotton is also affordable, especially compared to other fabrics like silk or georgette.  The cotton yarn is soft and non-toxic, making it suitable for all skin types. Cotton sarees do not cause any types of skin rash or irritation.

Cotton sarees also look crisp and new in appearance. They have a natural lustre that does not fade away with time.  The colours and patterns of a cotton saree stay on for much longer. Thus, wearing a cotton saree gives the woman an elegant and chic look. You can visit the best saree shops in south Kolkata to look at some amazing cotton saree collections.

The cotton saree is also especially popular because it can be worn comfortably in all weather conditions. The cotton fabric is soft, breathable, and absorbs sweat easily. This makes it the ideal choice for summertime saree wear. Cotton sarees are lightweight, comfortable and easy to wear. With a cotton saree, there is also zero chances of drooping. It sits perfectly on a woman’s figure as it is draped, giving ladies a refined and classy look. 

The cotton fabric can also be blended easily with other fabrics, creating new varieties like mercerized cotton and cotton silk sarees. These sarees are soft and preferred by many young women today. Cotton sarees are also ideal for creating new designs such as cotton hand painted sarees, cotton block printed sarees, and cotton hand embroidery sarees. The durable and soft fabric serves as the perfect canvas to try out new styles.

How to accessorize stylishly with a Cotton Saree?

1. Wear a Designer Blouse

Cotton sarees are mostly known for their simplicity. So, why not add some colours and vibrancy to your look with designer blouses! A contrasting deep coloured blouse next to a pastel-hued cotton saree would look divine on all days.

2. Oxidized Jewellery

Some combinations like a kanjeevaram saree and gold jewellery are meant to be. Similarly, oxidised jewellery sets look the best with plain cotton sarees. Oxidised necklaces, earrings, rings, or bangles have a traditional and ethnic feel, that go perfectly well when paired with cotton sarees.

Final Thoughts

Cotton sarees come in a wide range of designs and collections, available at varying prices. The best cotton saree shop in Kolkata will offer you an amazing amount of choices from across India such as Tant, Sambhalpuri, Chanderi cotton, Gadwal, Batik, and more.

Statement Earrings

When it comes to fashion jewellery online Kolkata, perhaps the most popular of the lot is oxidised earrings. They have a chic and elegant look and go especially well with ethnic wear like sarees or kurtis. These earrings come in various styles like jhumkas, chandbali, drop earrings, or just simple studs. Sometimes, oxidised earrings come with colourful beads, tassels or pompoms to make them look more stylish and attractive. Oxidised jewellery has a tribal essence which makes you stand out in a crowd.

Choker Necklaces

Necklaces, chains, and statement neckpieces are all available in oxidised style. Oxidised chokers or collar necklaces have become especially popular. These look good with ethnic as well as indo-western wear. They are uniquely crafted with beautifully embedded designs. There are also necklaces of a longer length which typically come with large pendants in a statement design. An oxidised neckpiece is bold and beautiful and gives a strong, powerful look to the lady who wears it.

Desi Bangles

When wearing a saree, most women like to accessorise the look with thin bangles. While gold is the traditional choice, in recent times, more women now prefer to go with oxidised bangles. They look chic and stylish and give a nice rustic touch to the overall look. Many girls nowadays also wear oxidised bangles with kurtis or jeans and tops. They go with all types of outfits and this is why oxidised bangles will make a great addition to every women’s jewellery collection.

Chic Finger Rings

Sleek and stylish or large and statement making, oxidised rings are highly searched items in the category of oxidised jewellery online in Kolkata. They are really popular as they can be worn with both Indian and western style outfits. Oxidised rings have an artsy vibe and you can wear multiple small rings on different fingers for a chic bohemian look. Or you can choose just one statement-making beautiful ring that catches the attention of everyone. Colourful contrasting beads and crystals are used to make these rings more attractive.

Nose Rings

For a simple, stylish and minimal look, choose oxidised nose rings. They come in modern contemporary designs in different shapes and sizes. Oxidised nose rings are available in both stud-like style to wear for those who have a piercing and in clip-on style for those without a piercing. They go look good with ethnic as well as western outfits.

Oxidised Anklets

And finally, there are oxidised anklets. They come in a variety of styles and designs which look great as fashionable accessories. Women can wear it with sarees, kurtis, or jeans. They come in either as a single string or with tiny ghungroos, crystals or stones.

Conclusion

Oxidised jewellery is fashionable and trending nowadays. They are suitable for both regular wear and special occasions. If you want to look at fashion jewellery online Kolkata, visit Bandhuli Boutique website o view more collections.

In this blog, we take a look at some of the most popular saree trends ahead of this year’s DurgaPujo.

Tussar Silk Saree

Tussar silk, or raw silk, is a special fabric made from the larvae of silkworms that grow in wild forests. The silk threads are a naturally golden colour and have a translucent texture. While a majority of this fabric produced in Jharkhand and Chhattisgarh, tussar silk sarees are also very popular in Bengal. They have a touch of elegance and sophistication that is perfect for joyous festivities like the Pujo. From traditional designs to a contemporary look, tussar silk sarees come in a wide range of patterns at varying price points.

Ghicha Saree

Ghichas arees are another big style trend this season. The Ghicha silk yarn is made of leftover Tussar silk threads that were not fully processed during the dyeing step. Hence, they retain their original texture and colour. Ghicha threads are usually blended with other purer fabrics like silkor cotton to give the saree a distinctive rustic look. The pale golden threads add shine to plain cotton sarees. Visit the best cotton saree shop in Kolkata and you will find many amazing collections of Ghicha cotton sarees. For a more premium look, you can buy Ghicha silk sarees that are effortlessly classy and can be a worthy inclusion in your wardrobe. They are comfortable and easy to carry and can be worn during any Pujo outing.

MadhubaniSaree

Madhubani is an indigenous art form whose traces can be found in our mythological epics, Ramayana and Mahabharata.It is a style of hand painting that originated in Mithila, Bihar, and is thus also known as ‘Mithila painting’. Only natural dyes and pigmentsare used for this art formand the patterns usually revolved around the theme of forests, natural landscapes, weddings, royal court scenes, and more. Madhubanihand-painted silk sarees are hugely popular all across India.They are a perfect outfit for Pujo festivities thanks to their bright colours and beautiful patterns. Madhubani silk sarees are typically printed on breathable soft fabrics so that the natural dyes get easily absorbed, which makes them super comfortable to wear.

Conclusion

Saree shops in Kolkata have a vast and expansive collection, ranging from silk to cotton to linen. Especially before the festival season begins, new designs are offered by both physical stores and online sellers. Want to browse through the collections of best cotton saree shop in Kolkata, then visit Bandhuli Boutique.

Consider yourself a saree-o-holic? You have come to the right place. Below, we discuss the different types of silk sarees that every woman must have in their wardrobe.

Banarasi Silk Saree

One of the finest quality traditional silk sarees, Banarasi sarees are characterized by their gold and silver zari work. Originating in the ancient city of Benaras, now Varanasi, the intricate and hand-woven zari designs are said to be Mughal inspired. In the olden days, real gold and silver threads were used to weave a Banarasi saree. Because of its heavy and royal look, Banarasi sarees are a top favourite for many Indian brides as their choice of a wedding saree

Kanjeevaram / Kanchipuram Silk Saree

Whether you visit silk saree shops in Kolkata or Bangalore, Kanjeevaram silk sarees are always the premium offering in every saree shop in this country. Made from pure mulberry silk grown in the Kanchipuram district of Tamil Nadu, Kanjeevaram sarees are known for their bright colours with thick contrast borders and golden zari. They commonly feature floral motifs, temple borders, stripes and checks designs. Kanjeevaram silk, also known as Kanchipuram silk, carries the GI (geographical indication) mark by the Government of India.

Tussar Silk Saree

Tussar silk, also known as wild silk, is made from the larvae of several species of silkworms belonging to the moth genus Antheraea. The silk produced is said to have a rich texture and a natural golden glow to the fabric. Tussar silk sarees are the epitome of elegance with the dull gold fabric working as a perfect base for both embroidery work and printed motifs. Tussar silk sarees in Kolkata are especially popular because of their understated charm and glamour.

Chanderi Silk Saree

If you shy away from wearing silk sarees because they feel heavy and bulky, Chanderi silk saree is a great option for you. Produced in the Chanderi district of Madhya Pradesh, these sarees are lightweight and comfortable. The silk has a soft and transparent texture with a little bit of shimmer in it. Traditionally, Chanderi saree had coin-shaped motifs woven in gold or silver threads to give the saree a simple yet distinctive look. But nowadays, floral and geometric patterns are weaved into the saree. Chanderi silk sarees also carry a GI tag.

Mysore Silk Saree

One of the softest and purest silks you can have in your wardrobe, the Mysore silk sareeis made out of pure mulberry silk manufactured in the Mysore district of Karnataka. The fabric has a slightly glossy finish with non-crush quality. Traditionally, Mysore silk sarees feature motifs like birds, fruits, and trees. They make a simple yet elegant style statement.

Wrapping Up

There are many more silk sarees in India to explore and talk about. But in the above list, we have mentioned the must-have pieces. Visit any of the silk saree shops in Kolkata and you will surely find a lot many options for the ones mentioned above.

Sarees are differentiated on several factors such as the fabric, print, embroideries, style of weaving, patterns, and even the occasion. There is also a traditional draping technique for every region, such as the Bengali style, Nivi style, Gujrati style, Assamese style, and the Marathi style, among others. It is such a graceful clothing item that, in certain parts of the country, it is also worn as decorative bridal wear. Not only women but even the sculptures of the Hindu Goddesses are also shown to be wearing a Saree, making it an embodiment of strength, respect, and purity.

Festivals and Sarees: The Cultural Connect

Even though for the working woman, it becomes difficult to manage a Saree as she carries on her work for the day, India, as a land of festivals, provides ample opportunities for her. Some traditions in these festivals also require women wearing Sarees and performing the rituals. The last time it was recorded, there were more than eighty styles of draping throughout the country. However, a visit to traditional families during festivals can give you a glimpse of women wearing a Saree drape authentic to their region. The others mostly follow a convenient and quick method of draping. Some of the authentic methods of wearing festival Sarees are:

Maharashtra: Also known as Nauvari, this drape is traditional to Maharashtra. Descendants of the Peshwa women, the traditional Maharashtra or Goa villagers (or fisherwomen) still drape their Sarees in this process. You will also see most women sporting this style during the famous Ganesh Chaturthi festival. In Maharashtra, you would find the Brahmins wearing the Saree knee-length, and the rural Pune women wearing the same Saree in an ankle-length fashion. The traditional Nauvari is divided into two pieces where one is tied around the waist, and the other covers the upper half of the body, almost like a dupatta. You can also find women performing their traditional dance form Lavani wearing the same Nauvari Saree. 

Assam: Here, the traditional wear is mostly a Saree-dress known as the Mekhela Sador. It is always hand-woven and found in cotton, muga, or pat silk materials. Traditionally worn by women during annual festivals like Bihu, the dress is divided into two parts. The bottom part, or the Mekhela, is a wide cylinder of cloth typically folded to form two pleats before tucking in. The top part, or the Sador, is longer, where one end is to be tucked in the Mekhela, and the rest draped to the rest of the body. Women are supposed to complement the Mekhela Sador with a tight blouse to enhance the form of the dress-Saree. However, at weddings, women are often seen to wear a Riha instead of a blouse.

Tamil Nadu: Usually known as Madisaru, women traditionally wear this after their wedding or during festivals like Pongal. An exciting part of this Saree draping style is that it is known as one of the most complicated styles because one is not allowed to wear a blouse or petticoat with it. The lower half of the Saree is known to be worn as a loincloth and the upper half, on the other hand, is to be pleated as a regular Saree. Also native to Tamil Nadu is the Pinkosu form of draping. Ideal for the humidity of the region, this Saree is worn in a way where it is wrapped around the waist one and a half times. This offers more coverage, unlike other styles. Best suited for handloom Sarees, this technique shows a lot of the underside of the Saree and thus requires expertise to wear.

Bengal: One of the most prevalent methods of wearing a Saree is the Bengal style, also known as Athpoure. Traditionally worn by women during their weddings when they wear a benarasi, or Durga Puja when they find comfort in the red-bordered white Gorod saree; Athpoure draping runs in the nerves of Bengali woman. Here, the Saree is draped with box pleats in the front, and the pallu falls on both the shoulders. The veil (aanchol) first comes from the back on the left shoulder and then comes to the right shoulder. To keep up with the traditions and command a respectful position in their family, Bengali women are also seen to tie a bunch of keys to the end of the veil.

Types of Sarees Commonly Found in India

When we speak of festival Sarees, we often come across a few materials specific to a certain zone. Some of the most traditional ones commonly found in the country include:

Bengal: Known to be a connoisseur of materials such as taant, Bengal has much more to offer. Traditionally weaved by the women of West Bengal and Tripura, taant is known for its transparency and lightness. Perfect as summertime wear, these two shuttle sarees are famous for their thick borders and decorative pallu. 

Tussur is also another saree material quite popular among Bengali women. Made up of brownish silk that is produced by an oriental moth, tussur sarees are mostly considered an inheritance in the Bengali household. Gorod, an alternative name for what is colloquially known as “white,” is a traditional festive wear for Bengali married women. During the Durga puja or noboborsho, they flaunt their “laal paar shada gorod” which roughly translates to a red-bordered white base gorod saree. It symbolizes power and purity at the same time. Some other forms of traditional sarees, unique to Bengal include Begumpuri and Bishnupuri Silk. 

South India: This area covers a broad range of sarees specific to each zone. Belonging to the Kanchipuram area is the Kanchipuram Silk, which is also colloquially known as the Kanjeevaram. Falling under the category of bridal and special occasion wear, Kanchipuram is mostly found in Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, and Karnataka. Next up in the South Indian traditional saree family, is the dharmavaram. 

Derived from the town of Dharmavaram, these sarees of the same name, are made from the mulberry trees which are a breeding ground for silkworms. Such mulberry silk sarees are pricey but offer a beautiful material to hold. They are woven by hand in an interlocked weft method in a combination of zari and mulberry silk to come up with these muted double shaded sarees.

Unlike these two elegant silk materials, the traditional saree of the Telangana district, Pochampally, is made up of the Ikkat style of dyeing. The uniqueness of these cotton and silk mix sarees typically lies in the colouring and intricate design.

Maharashtra: Whenever one speaks of the gorgeous handwoven silk materials, the richest sarees of Maharastra, Paithani comes in the picture. These are also known to be handwoven poems written in silk and gold. Also known to be a symbol of intellectuality among elites, back in time, it was treated as an heirloom and worn only by the rich families. The authentic Paithani sarees are till date woven with original gold or silver, on pure silk.

Assam: Popular for the three primary variants of indigenous wild silks produced originally in Assam, the Sarees hailing from this region are typically called “Assam Silk”. The silk categories found here are the golden muga, white pat, and the warm eri. These are also used to weave their famous traditional wear mekhela sador. 

India, being one of the oldest civilizations in the World, is a land of cultural diversity and each region has a dress that carries its individuality and uniqueness. Even though modern styles of wearing a Saree are more prevalent these days, it becomes crucial to stay in touch with the roots by shifting to the authentic draping styles during the festivals. 

From being draped around the entire body to wearing it from below the navel, saree is one attire that has always remained open to modernity and innovative influence. Today, saree is the only garment that is subjected to trendy improvisations by fashion designers around the world that have led to the creation of fashionable designer sarees. Whether it is a traditional occasion, marriage ceremony, social party or formal event, a woman draped in this six yards of pure elegance, is sure to make several heads turn!

Gone are the days when wearing a saree was restricted to traditional days only. Over the past few years, the trend of wearing a saree for any occasion is more prevalent than before. More often than not, women of all ages and walks of life prefer to dress up in sarees when they wish to look gorgeous and attractive. Fashion designers of today are creating sarees that bring to light a modern woman’s style statement. In this blog, we shall take a look at how some of the leading designers of the modern fashion world have given a whole new definition to the saree and blended modernity with an ethnic twist.

Sabyasachi Mukherjee

Kolkata’s pride, Sabyasachi Mukherjee is one of the leading designers who has a fashion label under his own name. He is best known for his exquisitely designed costumes for Bollywood films like Baabul, Raavan, Laaga Chunari Mein Daag, among others. His modern fashion ideology stems from his belief “clothes should just be an extension of one’s intellect.” His theory of design is based on “personalized imperfection of the human kind”. As a pioneering designer blending modernity in high-end luxury textiles, one can witness gypsies, deserts, cultural traditions, antique textiles, fusions of styles and vibrant colour play in his collection.

Agnimitra Paul

Another designer from West Bengal, India, Agnimitra Paul’s signature style in the world of modern fashion speaks of her 5 statements: Simplicity, Differentiation, Modernity in Gender, Cultural Ethos and Values. Be it her collection of sarees or other ethnic wear, her clothing label INGA is distinguished for her use of bright colours, custom formulations and innovative designs. That modern women can look glamorous in an ethnic ensemble is discernible through her collections. Her connection with Bollywood began with Sridevi and other celebrities like Esha Deol, Shonal Rawat, Sonali Kulkarni and many more. She has also designed for Swastika Mukherjee, Rituparna Sengupta and many more personalities. Her exclusive collection of sarees that showcased the use of heavy colourful prints had nailed the Lakme Fashion Week Summer 2013. In addition, she has also received appreciation from Hillary Clinton, the former US Secretary of State for her designer shawls and blankets. 

Ritu Kumar

A Padma Shree awardee, Ritu Kumar is known for her pioneering journey in India’s modern fashion industry. Her fashion territory provides shelter to three main labels – ‘Ri’, Ritu Kumar’s premium bridal wear range, ‘Label’, a prêt-a-porter label brand and ‘Ritu Kumar’, a traditional and semi-formal designer label. Her ethnic designs are an amalgamation of traditional prints, natural fabric and various weaving techniques. Although she has fused Western concepts in her works, her traditional saree designs are regarded as the best in class even by her contemporaries like Sabyasachi Mukherjee. Her ethnic collection is a classic example of timeless styling and cultural beauty while exploring the various disciplines of art and craft.

Making a fashion statement wearing a saree has been into the game for a few years now. But are you aware of the popular draping styles that are grabbing the limelight? Here they are:

1. Dhoti style: Did you know that you can drape your saree in a way that looks like a dhoti? This fusion look is making a big statement and thanks to celebrities like Shilpa Shetty and Sonam Kapoor who are popularising the dhoti drape. So, if you want to ditch the traditional look of a saree and make a new style statement, drape your saree in the dhoti way.
2. Lehenga style draping: One of the beautiful ways to drape your saree is by wearing it like a lehenga. This is also a very convenient way to flaunt a lehenga without buying one! Just take the pallu of the saree and give an effect of a lehenga.
3. Cocktail style: Have a designer blouse and want to wear your saree like a gown? You should be trying the cocktail style of draping. All you need is a bodysuit or a heavy blouse and a chiffon or georgette saree. Then drape it like a gown without much effort and pull the entire pallu to one side. The best part of this style is that not only it enhances the appeal of your blouse but also highlights your shapely figure!
4. Pants style draping: Wearing your saree with pants is the dream look of any modern woman. If you are a lover of the Indo-western look, don’t think twice of replacing the boring petticoat with pants of the same colour as your saree. Drape it around stylishly to let your pants be visible enough. 
5. Bengali style of draping: You must have seen in many Bollywood movies having a Bengali theme where the actors are draped in this popular style. The entire idea behind this draping style is to emphasise on the heavy border of the saree. Bengali style is all about reverse draping and it looks excellent when done with a saree having a heavy border.

Conclusion: There is no doubt that sarees have occupied a major portion of the fashion industry. From Karisma Kapoor to Lisa Haydon, an increasing number of celebrities are reverting to draping themselves in sarees created by their favourite designers. As a consequence, a garment that was an all-time-wear for women is now used to enhance a woman’s style quotient. So, if you are confused about what to wear at a business event or your friend’s anniversary party, why not wear a beautiful saree and give a reason to admire your grace?

History of Sarees – An Overview

Embedded deeply in our society, sarees have been considered as a symbol of femininity in India. Be it classical Sanskrit literature, or traditional sculptural art, every archaic source underlines the popularity of sarees as a woman’s wear since time immemorial. Some also argue that the practice of wearing unstitched clothes dates back to the Indus Valley Civilisation based on certain excavated evidence. Most importantly, a popular and powerful reference to saree can be found in the Mahabharata wherein Draupadi’s vastra haran paved the way for the Kurikshetra Yuddha.

It is also interesting to point out that earlier Hindu women would drape sarees without chest bands. And it was only after the arrival of foreign rulers that they had to pair their sarees with chest bands or blouses as per the sartorial dictums of the ruling dynasties. 

In this connection, we must also remember the contributions of Jnanadanandini Devi, the eldest daughter-in-law of the Tagore family, in revolutionising this ethnic wear. Taking a cue from the Parsi costumes, Jnanadanandini Devi, the wife of Satyendranath Tagore, adopted and preached the style of pairing blouses and jackets with sarees. Besides, she was also credited for introducing a convenient style of draping sarees wherein the pleats would be evenly tucked into the waist to allow easy body movements. Her modern draping style became popular not only in Bengal but across the country. Proper draping instead of random wrapping allowed women to move around freely and with dignity. 

Types of Fabrics

Although national wear, sarees come in diverse patterns, colours, and are made of different materials. Each part of our country embraces this clothing with certain modifications as per respective conveniences. Here are some common fabrics used by our rural artisans to manufacture the finest sarees in India. 

Cotton

Due to its convenience and breathability, cotton is an extremely popular fabric used for making sarees. This easy to wear fabric can also be mixed with other materials to design diverse variants of sarees like Dhakai, Chanderi, Tant, and so on. Cotton sarees are perfect as daily wear for their light texture and versatility. 

Silk

Sarees made of this fabric are luxurious in their look and feel. This fabric can be woven from various kinds of natural silks like tasar, eri, muga, so on. Is anyone’s festival look even complete without draping a rich silk saree? These are a must in our wardrobes for their colourful and aesthetic appeal. 

Linen

Sustainable and durable, the linen fabric has garnered a lot of attention lately. Given its soft and breathable nature, linen is being increasingly used to make ethnic sarees in India. Made from sustainable flax crops, linen is biodegradable and hypoallergenic. 

Khadi

Swadeshi and National Movements played an instrumental role in reviving khadi handloom industries in the twentieth century. Made from the hand-spun cotton yard, khadi is coarse and an authentic Indian fabric. Today, it is used not only to manufacture sarees but other kinds of clothing as well.

Evolution of Jamdani – A Historical Context

Do you treasure an extensive collection jamdani sarees in your wardrobe? But how much do you know about its origin? The art of weaving these sarees indeed reached its peak under the stewardship of Bengal Nawabs during the Mughal rule. However, the mention of Vanga, a soft textile fabric in Chanakya’s Arthashastra is almost always regarded as the oldest reference to jamdani.

During the Mughal rule, Bengal became world-famous for producing the best quality jamdani fabrics. Given the exceptional artistry of the Muslim weavers, the district of Dhaka soon emerged as the epicentre of jamdani production. Moreover, these traditional industries received the patronage of the Nawabs and aristocrats, which boosted the production and demand of jamdani fabrics in both domestic and international markets even further. However, the jamdani industry received a setback with the arrival of Britishers who inundated the market with cheap textile products. This led to a steady decline of handloom industries, not to speak of the helpless condition of Muslim weavers whose products failed to compete with the imported items. 

Unique Technique of Weaving

While other fabrics are all about designs printed or embroidered on them, with jamdani, it is a whole new set of artistry wherein the intricate designs are meticulously woven into the fabric. Using the weft technique, the artisans firstly create the base material, and upon which, the supplementary weft motifs are added. They add each weft motif manually into the warp using bamboo sticks. From flower motifs and butidar to terchhar and mango motifs, a range of designs are created on jamdani sarees to amplify their appeal before the worldwide audience. 

It is also interesting to point out that in this technique no pattern or design is drawn on the fabric. Rather, the patterns are sketched on the graph paper and positioned under the warp. The compact design of cotton thread and golden zari is obtained when an extra weft is woven like a grid pattern on the warp. Considered to be the best out of all jamdanis, Dhakai jamdani sarees boast of excellent workmanship with flawless motifs and designs. No wonder, it takes 9 to 12 months to weave one Dhakai jamdani! On the other hand, Tangail jamdani has loose weaves and is less time-consuming to design. Tussar jamdani with silver zari is another variant that undergoes exhaustive weaving due to round butta patterns. 

Popularity of Jamdani During Post Independence

With the partition, the major jamdani producing districts have gone to Bangladesh, while West Bengal in India is left with certain popular regions like Shantipur and Dhaniakhali. To offset the damages done to the industry by the British, the governments of respective countries have taken steps to revive the popularity of this heritage fabric. Bangladesh is the dominant exporter of authentic Dhakai jamdani, with India being the major importer of them. It is worthy to mention that jamdani is recognised as an intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO. That certainly speaks volumes of the legacy of this art of weaving!

Conclusion – Being labour-intensive artistry, jamdani sarees boast of original and exquisite handwork. Along with the vibrant visual, these sarees can easily bed draped and flaunted in style. To salute the exhaustive craftsmanship of our exceptionally talented weavers, we must wear and promote our ethnic garments with no hesitation. So, let us cherish these six yards of elegance to keep alive and celebrate our tradition and culture amid the waves of westernisation.